A Day Trip to Xochimilco, Mexico City

Xochimilco is known for its colourful canals, traditional trajinera boats and lively atmosphere. Once part of a large network of waterways used by the Aztecs, Xochimilco is now one of Mexico City’s most popular cultural day trip. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has been high on my bucket list, so during my month trip to Mexico, I had to visit. I decided to join a tour group to make the organisation aspect of the day trip easier. Visiting Xochimilco gave us a great glimpse into the area’s pre-Hispanic past and offered an escape from the hustle of Mexico City. Whether you’re going for the experience of floating down the canals with mariachi music, or observing a different side to local life, I recommend adding this stop to your itinerary!However, I’ve put together this guide to help you with logistics, what to expect and some tips for planning your visit.

What is Xochimilco?

Xochimilco is an area in Mexico City that’s best known for its canal and colourful flat-bottomed boats called Trajineras. They’re used by locals and tourists alike to enjoy the waterways with music, food and drinks on board. The name “Xochimilco” actually means “flower field” in Nahuatl – a tribute to the area’s history of chinampas. These are man-made agricultural islands that were built by the Aztecs – with some still working today!

 

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How to Get to Xochimilco from Mexico City

Xochimilco is located about 23km south of Mexico City and is easily accessible by public transport, ride shares or taxis. If you’re short on time, a taxi or ride share (like Uber), would be your best option. This should take around 45-60 minutes from the city centre, depending on traffic.

To get to Xochimilco by public transport, take the Mtro Line 2 (blue line) to Tasqueña (southern terminal station). From Tasqueña, swap to the Tren Ligero (light rail) and ride to Xochimilco station. This journey will take about an hour in total. From Xochimilco station, it’s about 10 minutes walk to the main embarcaderos (the waterfront where the boat docks are).

Which Embarcadero (Boat Dock) to Choose

There are several embarcaderos in Xochimilco to choose from depending on what vibe you want. Some are known for being more relaxed and nature orientated, whilst others are busier and more party-focused.

Embarcadero Nativitas is the most tourist-friendly dock with lots of boats, guides and vendors to choose from. This is the one we went to and I’d advise this one if it’s your first time. It was the most straightforward one to get too and there were some English speakers here too. If you’re planning on turning up and booking on the day, this is likely going to be your best option too.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is similar to the one above but it’s typically less crowded. So, if you’ve had no luck at Embarcadero Nativitas, then head to this one!

Embarcadero Cuemanco is good if you’re looking for a quieter option that has more of a nature-focus.

How Much Does a Trajinera Ride Cost?

I did my trip to Xochimilco as part of a tour, which included the cost of a Trajinera, the transport, some food/drinks and a few other stops along the way. But if you’re looking for just the price of the boat, the current government-set rate is around $600 MXN per hour per boat. Prices are set by boat, not by person! So regardless of how many people are on board, you’ll be paying that price. Maximum capacity is usually around 15-20. This was a big part of why my sister and I decided to join a tour, as we couldn’t guarantee finding other people to pair up with to help split the costs of the boat.

Be sure to confirm the price before you board, and if someone tries to significantly overcharge you, just walk away. There were so many operators at the dock, that you’ll be able to find someone else offering at the more standard rate. Booking ahead isn’t a must, however, if you’re going with a large group or you’re looking for a themed experience (like mariachi packages or booxy boats), then I’d recommend booking in advance.

What to Bring with You to Xochimilco

  1. Cash (pesos and USD) – mosy vendors and boats didn’t accept cards when I was there. My sister and I were scammed at different tourist sites in Mexico, when trying to use debit cards. So i’d just recommend in general only using cash anyway.
  2. Snacks/Drinks – there are floating vendors along the canal that sell food and drink. However, I recommend bringing at least a big bottle of water with you. It was hot when we went and I was glad to have my own water with me whilst waiting for the boats etc.
  3. Sunscreen and sun protection – there’s very little shade, so be sure to bring your preferred sun protection (hats, sunscreen etc)
  4. Toilet paper – I recommend bringing some of your own, as many public bathrooms weren’t well stocked.
  5. Portable speakers – we passed a few boats that had their own speakers, so if you’re looking for a lively vibe, consider bringing your own!
  6. Alcohol – we weren’t in a big boozy boat, but there were groups nearby that had brought their own coolers and drinks! Just be sure to be respectful and take all litter away with you

What to Expect During the Ride

Our group tour had about 15 people and everyone was lovely! My sister and I definitely lucked out. Upon arriving at Embarcadero Nativitas, we had a toilet stop and then met our gondolier to board our traditional trajinera boat. Going on a Thursday meant we could float down the various waterways in a more peaceful setting, compared to the hectic Weekend parties. The gondolier let us hold the long, wooden pole, which was surprisingly heavy! We bought some food and drinks from various vendors along the way, having a lovely group lunch together. Our guide for the day was able to point out specific bits of wildlife and we passed some scenic areas like old bridges. There were floating mariachi bands that played us a few songs. I believe these are usually charged at a fee, but our tour guide took care of it. A typical ride will last 1-2 hours, so by the time we’d finished eating, we were heading back towards the boat dock.

Tips for a Good Day

  1. Agree on a price and length before boarding! Research the offical hourly rate ahead of time and stick to that.
  2. If you’re planning to go on the weekends, get there early to avoid long queues
  3. Don’t expect a guided tour (unless you’ve joined a group tour like I did) – gondilers typically let you enjoy the atmosphere, as opposed to giving guided commentary. If you want that type of trip, I’d advise going with a group tour, where you guide can provide some learnings.
  4. Look out for scams – unfortunately there are some unofficial guides that try to charge extra for ‘permits’ or ‘tickets’. Find a different operator if they started charging for things outside of the boat.
  5. Keep valuables with you – as with any tourist site, be sure to keep your belongings close to you. This is particularly important at the busy embarcaderos!

Visiting Isla de Las Muñecas (Island of the Dolls)

If you’re looking for something different, and you have the time, you can ask your gondolier about visiting the Isla de las Muñecas. Isla de las Muñecas is a remote chinampa filled with hundreds of old, decaying dolls that hang from trees. The journey takes about 2-3 hours each way, so we didn’t have time for this 6-hour round trip (minimum), but I heard interesting things about this trip. From what our guide said, it’s more for fans of the macabre and off-the-beaten track activities. This is typically something you need to arrange ahead of time, or go with a tour, given how far away it is.

Xochimilco FAQs

When’s the best time to visit Xochmilco?

The best time to visit will largely depend on what vibe you want. The weekdays are quieter, with fewer crowds and less traffic on the canals. This would be a good time to visit with young children. The weekends are much busier and festive, particularly in the afternoon. If you’re looking for a lively atmosphere, with music and drinks, go on a weekend afternoon. Public holdiays and Sundays are especially busy, so avoid this time if you want a quiet, peaceful trip.

How long should I spend in Xochimilco?

I would say 2–3 hours, including boat time and walking around the local area, if enough time. If you’re planning to go to Isla de las Muñecas, consider spending the day here. Our time in Xochimilco was dictated by our tour guide, however, I didn’t feel like we were being rushed to see everything or that we spent too long in each place.

Should I book a boat in advance?

You don’t need to book in advance, but i’d recommend doing so if you’re going during a busy time (e.g. weekend or holidays). In addition, if you’re going in a big group, you’re more likely to get your preferred time slot and better deals if you book ahead. However, if you’re unsure on dates, you can just turn up and negotiate. Go directly to the boats, don’t accept offers from people trying to sell boat tours elsewhere. If you’re looking for themed experiences, or more boozy parties experiences, i’d book ahead with a tour. As my sister and I don’t speak Spanish, we went directly with a tour group who were able to organise the whole thing for us.

Is Xochimilco safe for tourists?

Yes, we definitely felt safe in the main waterfront areas. However, like with any city, it’s best to keep your valuables secure and be mindful of your surroundings.

Can I share a boat with strangers to save money?

Some boatmen might allow you to share with others, especially at busy docks. You can also ask around to split the cost. If you’re concerned about price, it might be worth looking into group tours there, as that’ll cover the cost of transport too, and might make it cheaper overall.

Is Xochimilco family-friendly?

Yes, although it can get loud and boozy on weekends. Weekdays or mornings are better for families with children.

Are there toilets on the boats?

No. However, there are toilets along the waterfront that you can use before boarding. There were also a few stops along the canals also have basic facilities – however, our boat didn’t stop off anywhere, so I’d recommend using the toilets before departing.

Is Xochimilco Worth Visiting?

I had such a great time visiting Xochimilco. It was the perfect escape from the busy city centre we were staying in and gave us a small glimpse into local life. If I could go back, i’d probably join one of the party boats to have a different experience. I would recommend going with a tour to help make the logistics of the day go smoothly – particularly if you don’t speak Spanish. It also kept the cost down for my sister and I, instead of paying for a full boat for just the two of us.

For other Mexico related posts, check our the best things to do in Holbox and some advice on how to travel between Tulum/Chetumal and Flores!

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